It's a great city for walking around quietly, but maybe that's only when you're led by the hand by someone who knows it. There are traces of broken rules and neglect if you take a moment to notice: used needles, graffiti, broken windows looking like the smile of a drunkard whose teeth got knocked out in a bar fight.
If you're up for a wander, the canal is a good place to start. When you follow the water, it feels almost like an expedition. Even if you don't really know what you're supposed to discover, it feels exciting anyway.